Dordogne Holiday Guide
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Everyone loves the Dordogne!
The British, (and many other nationalities too, for that matter) are in love with the Dordogne. The department is as French as it can be, in terms of its landscapes and architecture, yet, rather like Tuscany in Italy, the Dordogne has acquired a reputation of being a "Little England". For holidaymakers this can be excellent news, as English is widely spoken, the tourism offices usually provide information in English and the tours can be taken in our language, which tends to make life easier! However, there is still plenty of French history, heritage and culture to be found.
Top 5 things to see and do in the Dordogne
1. Discover prehistoric caves
The Dordogne has an unusual underground attraction - or, in fact, rather a lot of them. Grottes (cliff face caves) and gouffres (underground caves) are a feature of this region, and many have been here since prehistoric times. All are good to see, with the most famous being the Lascaux Caves, found at Montignac in the Black Perigord area. Although the original caves had to be closed to the public for safety reasons, the reconstruction, complete with cave paintings, is fascinating and educational.
2. Learn about the wines
The Dordogne is a great wine producing department, and Bergerac is the heartland of its wine. There are some thirteen appellations in and around Bergerac, and anyone with an interest in wine will enjoy a stay here. You can take specialised courses to learn about the wines, or simply order a bottle with your meal and enjoy.
3. Visit a bastide
The Dordogne is known for its beautiful bastide towns, which were originally built in the Middle Ages to create new fortified centres for habitation after the devastation of war. Bastides usually follow a distinctive pattern, with a central square, often arcaded, and a grid pattern of streets radiating off this. Most also display lovely mediaeval buildings with external timbers and host colourful markets in their central squares. Visiting these towns gives a real taste of the area and its past, and is highly recommended as part of any holiday in the department.
4. Enjoy the rivers and lakes
The Dordogne, with its picturesque rivers and lakes is tailor made for water sports, as well as many other outdoor activities. Paddling your way along the River Dordogne, or maybe the Vezère is not just an enjoyable family activity, but also a wonderful way to take in the glorious countryside as you pass by.
5. Discover the castles
The Dordogne has some 1,000 chateaux, many of which are open to the public, at least in the summer months. Local tourist offices will provide literature advising you of the best ones to visit and how to book tours if necessary.
Top 5 towns and cities in the Dordogne
1. Bergerac
Bergerac is a lovely town, and manages to maintain a friendly and relaxed ambience in spite of being the Dordogne's capital city. Bergerac has a modern sector, offering excellent shopping, dining and other entertainment, while the old mediaeval centre has some delightful features such as pretty squares and streets, original houses and old wine rooms to see. It is also possible to take a barge trip down the river from the old port. Bergerac is also a notable producer of wines, and wine tasting is widely available.
2. Sarlat la Canéda
Sarlat la Canéda is a sub prefecture of the Dordogne, and also a beautiful mediaeval town. In fact, Sarlat lays claim to being the most beautiful mediaeval town in France, and once you see it, the claim is hard to refute. The town has been the setting for major films, with its golden stone buildings and picturesque setting. The only real drawback to spending a holiday here is that Sarlat is almost too attractive for its own good, and so becomes inundated with tourists in the summer season.
3. Eymet
Eymet is another lovely bastide town, and also hosts one of the best markets in the region every Thursday morning. If you are only taking a day out to visit Eymet, make it Thursday, as the market really is a treat. While in town you can also take in the heritage, with old fortifications still visible as well as original buildings and a classic bastide layout.
4. Monpazier
If you are still up for seeing more bastides, Monpazier has to be worth a look. It has the most stunning arcaded central square where you can stop for a coffee or a bite to eat, shaded from the summer sun, and just soak up the atmosphere. It's worth going just to enjoy this simple pleasure, although you can, of course, also see the mediaeval buildings, fortifications and explore the church.
5. Brantôme
Brantôme is often called the Venice of the Perigord, and its setting beside the lovely River Dronne adds a magical quality to this interesting and elegant town. There is plenty of heritage to see, and when you are done with sight seeing there is nothing nicer than to settle in one of the riverside restaurants and enjoy the fine gastronomy of the area while the waters and the boats float slowly past you.
Food and drink in the Dordogne
The Dordogne has the rich and delicious gastronomy that is so typical of south-west France. Duck is a favourite meat and comes in various guises, from the tender magret to the luxuriously creamy Foie Gras, while other treats include rare and precious truffles, wonderful walnuts and superb wines.
How to get to the Dordogne
Bergerac has its own airport with flights from the low cost airline Ryanair and Flybe, so reaching the department from Britain is really easy and cheap. Other airports you might consider include Brive Vallée de la Dordogne, Bordeaux or Limoges. Trains also run to the Dordogne, and there is talk of a possible future rail link direct from London!
